FAQ Page
Q. What is engineered hardwood flooring?
Engineered Wood vs. Solid Wood
It's a well-known fact within the flooring industry that engineered wood flooring is much more stable than solid wood flooring in environments where moisture, and weather changes is a concern. Wood and water, however, do not mix. Damp conditions undermine all types of floor coverings. Oak lumber floors, for instance, can have many problems in the presence of moisture, including gaps between planks, squeaking, cupping, buckling, and cracking. Engineered hardwood flooring is flooring manufactured by using hardwood with a cross-directional laminated construction (usually 3 to 5 layers), with a top layer of premium hardwood. Our product should not be confused with flooring that is made to look like wood like laminate flooring. Our hardwood flooring is some of the best engineered flooring in the industry.
Q. Why would people choose prefinished over unfinished flooring?
Prefinished flooring has a great advantage over unfinished flooring. Both floors install exactly the same, however, once the prefinished floor is installed you're all done. The only thing you have left to do is move the furniture back into the room and enjoy. An unfinished floor requires sanding and then the application of urethane. This can take an extra couple of days labor with an incomparable amount of aggravation. Prefinished floors also have an incredible finish warranty usually consisting of 10-25 years depending on the brand of flooring.
Q. Can your flooring be glued to concrete?
Yes, you can glue our engineered flooring directly to concrete: on, above or below grade. However, it is important to test the concrete for moisture before installing hardwood flooring, for below grade applications if moisture is present then a moisture barrier is recommended.
Q. What advantage does engineered flooring have over solid hardwood flooring?
Engineered hardwood flooring is very versatile and more stable than solid flooring. For example, engineered hardwood flooring can be glued, stapled, or nailed to virtually any subfloor, concrete, wood, linoleum, or even over existing hardwood floors. The cross directional layup of the products counteracts the natural tendency of wood to expand and contract with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity, making engineered flooring inherently dimensionally more stable than solid products.
Q. Which type of wood is the hardest?
All hardwoods that are used for flooring are very dependable and resilient. They do have their different scales of hardness that you will find by referring to the Janka Hardness and Stability Chart. Some of the more popular species of wood that are used for flooring are Hard Maple, Red Oak, Cherry, Ash, and Birch. Of these species listed, even though they do have different scales of hardness, you will not see a great difference under normal wear and tear.
Q. Why does my floor change color?
Wood is a natural and living material that reacts to ambient light. A comparison using an adhesive bandage will help you understand the phenomenon that occurs. In sunlight, your skin will become tanned, while the skin under the bandage will not change. However, once you remove the bandage, the newly exposed skin will gradually tan, as did the rest. The reaction is similar when furniture or a rug is placed over a hardwood floor and then removed. There is no need to worry about this situation, since it is only a matter of time before the paler sections take on the same color as the rest of the floor.
Q. Why should I buy Prefinished Flooring versus Unfinished Flooring?
Unfinished flooring installed by a professional gives the most options regarding sheen and custom colors. Prefinished flooring is convenient. There is less time involved in installation and less mess. Changes in humidity will not crack the finish between two individual planks as they can move independently.
Q. Why is prefinished microbevelled?
When a floor is sanded in your home minor differences in the subfloor and wood thickness are corrected. Our tiny microbevel is to insure stocking feet do not catch on the edge of the floor.
Q. Can I install a solid 3/4" hardwood floor in my basement?
Solid 3/4" Hardwood flooring cannot be installed below grade (below the soil line) or over concrete. When a solid product encounters moisture it reacts very negatively. Therefore, a laminate or engineered flooring must be used. Laminate flooring is constructed by fusing 4-plys of material together to form a product with unprecedented strength and durability. An engineered product is very similar with the exception that they usually have a real wood layer on top of the constructed core.
Q. If I don't want to install it myself, what would I expect to pay someone to install it for me?
A good average across the nation is $2.50 to $3.00 per square foot to pay an installer for laying your hardwood floors. This would not include the glue. When you look at the money you save with Bestbuyflooring.com, you can purchase and have your floors installed for less money than you would pay for just the flooring at a retail flooring store.
Q. Why are there gaps in between the boards on my floor?
During the summer months of the year, there is a lot of humidity in the air. Your hardwood floor soaks up this humidity and expands. As the winter months roll around, and the heat is turned on, the floor dries out and starts to gap. There are a couple of tips we recommend to try and avoid this problem. Try to keep the room at a constant 45% humidity level using an air conditioner, humidifier, or a dehumidifier. Also, prior to installation, let your floor acclimate to its surroundings. Two weeks before the floor is to be laid, bring the flooring into the area where the floor is to be installed. Stack the flooring 3-4 bundles high leaving a 6"-7" space between the stacks. This will allow air to circulate between the stacks and for your flooring to properly acclimate.
Q. What is the different grading of wood flooring?
Prime Grade: Uniformity of color, slight variation in the nature of the sapwood color. Limited character marks. Sound knots of less than 1/8". Streaks of less than 1/8" x 4". No Stains, checks or splits.
Standard Grade: Variegated appearance. All colors allows. All characteristics of the species allowed. Sound knots less than 3/8". No stains, checks, or splits.
Rustic or Country: Rustic appearance. All color variations allowed. All characteristics of the species allow. A serviceable floor with knots, holes, checks, splits and other imperfections.
Q. What type of care is required for my hardwood floor?
Unfinished hardwood floors do not require waxing, most often just a light damp mopping will clean your floor. Some cleaners can be used infrequently to maintain the floors. For more information go to the NWFA website.
For prefinished floors, use only floor cleaners with no residue or abrasives. Do not wax, polish, or buff. Occasionally clean the floor with a professional floor cleaner.
Q How do I choose the right type of wood flooring?
A. Choosing the right kind and style of wood flooring is not hard if you are familiar with several industry terms.
Choice #1: Unfinished wood flooring:
Unfinished flooring is a product that must be job-site sanded and finished after installation.
Choice #2: Pre-finished wood flooring:
Pre-finished flooring is factory sanded and finished flooring that only needs installation.
Choice #3: Solid wood flooring:
Solid wood flooring is completely lumber. It is available in unfinished and pre-finished. Solid wood flooring is produced in:
Choice #4: Engineered wood flooring:
Engineered wood flooring is produced by bonding layers of veneer and lumber with an adhesive. Engineered wood flooring is available in pre-finished and unfinished. These products are more dimensionally stable and are ideal for glue-down installation or float-in installation above grade, on grade or below grade, including basements and humid climates. Engineered wood flooring is produced in:
